~Dip the pieces of turtle into the egg wash, then toss in the flour mixture. In a separate bowl, beat the egg with a couple tablespoons of water to make an egg wash. ~While the oil heats, mix the flour, cornmeal, and Cajun seasoning together in a shallow bowl. Heat the oil to 350 degrees in a heavy pot. ~Pick the meat away from the bone, preferably in bite-sized pieces. Remove the turtle pieces from the pot and allow to cool. Place the lid on the pot and simmer the meat for one hour. Bring the mixture to a boil, add the turtle meat, then reduce the heat to a simmer. ~Start by adding the vinegar to two quarts of water in a heavy pot. This method gives tender meat with a crispy, crunchy coating. This method slow simmers the turtle pieces on the bone first, then the meat gets deboned, dipped in egg wash, then rolled in flour and deep fried. The trouble with this method is that it makes the breading on the turtle meat soft and a bit mushy. The first involves frying the meat first, then wrapping it in foil and placing it in a cooler or slow cooker to basically steam itself for an hour or two. There are a couple of ways to get around this when you fry it. “The meat should be almost-but not quite-falling off the bones.” Fish the pieces out of the sauce and gently pull the meat apart before returning it to the pot and serving.Critters In The Kitchen - E01: “Southern Summer Snapper” (HOW TO COOK SNAPPING TURTLE!) “You don’t want to disturb the rabbit too much,” he says. (“It’s an ongoing joke in Louisiana cooking that ‘first you make a roux,’” Bourgeois says, laughing.) That slow simmer is key, especially when working with rabbit. It simmers slowly, the broth thickened with roux. Sauce piquante can be made with any kind of meat, from squirrel to alligator. “We ate out of the freezer three or four nights of the week, whether that was perch and catfish I caught from Bayou Lafourche or ducks or rabbits that my dad would sometimes trade for redfish or wild hog.” “I was incredibly fortunate to grow up and-I mean this in every sense of the words-to live off the land,” he says. Rabbits came next, run by beagles through sugarcane fields. When he was a child in Labadieville and Thibodaux, Louisiana, squirrels were Bourgeois’s first quarry, pursued through the oak and pecan trees. Bourgeois earned Blue Smoke some of its best reviews before departing earlier this year to, as he says, get back to the “purity of feeding people, not thinking about seat numbers,” at pop-ups and guest-chef stints around the country. That love led Bourgeois to study at Louisiana’s Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, then drove him to New York City, to helm the kitchen (and the pits) at Blue Smoke, Danny Meyer’s pan-Southern barbecue restaurant. And not only that, but seeing my dad so excited to cook-not because of the competition, but because he loves feeding people, just as I do.” “What I remember the most is seeing a community of five thousand people come together and get so excited for a cook-off. It’s not the aroma or the flavor of rabbit sauce piquante (“pee- quohn”) that Jean-Paul Bourgeois recalls as his first food memory it’s the experience of watching his father, Lloyd, cook a big vat of the spicy, roux-thickened tomato-based stew at the St.
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